Getting your hands on bezgar remote control car parts is just part of the hobby once you realize that "bashing" really does mean slamming into curbs and taking jumps that are way too big for a 1/12 scale truck. Let's be real for a second—if you aren't breaking anything, you probably aren't driving hard enough. Whether you're running one of their hobby-grade brushless monsters or a more entry-level brushed model, there's a certain inevitability to the "crunch" sound. But that's actually the fun part for a lot of us. Taking the shell off, grabbing a hex driver, and swapping out a snapped arm is how you really learn how these machines work.
The Most Common Parts You'll End Up Replacing
If you've spent more than a week with your RC car, you already know what the "usual suspects" are. For most Bezgar owners, the front suspension arms are the first thing to go. They're designed to be the weak point on purpose; it's much cheaper and easier to replace a plastic arm than it is to fix a bent chassis or a snapped bulkhead. When you hit a rock at 25 miles per hour, that energy has to go somewhere.
Aside from the arms, keep an eye on your shock towers. Because they stick up, they tend to take the brunt of the impact during a rollover. If you notice your car is sitting a little lopsided or the body shell isn't lining up right, you've probably got a hairline crack in one of those towers. It's always a good idea to keep a couple of these in your toolbox. They're cheap, and having them on hand means your Saturday afternoon at the park doesn't end five minutes after you arrive.
Upgrading from Plastic to Metal
Once you start breaking the stock components, the temptation to move to metal bezgar remote control car parts becomes very real. It's a bit of a balancing act, though. Aluminum parts look incredible—there's nothing like the shine of anodized blue or red peeking through the wheels. Metal parts are also much stiffer, which can make the steering feel a lot more precise. You won't get that "mushy" feeling when you're trying to take a sharp turn at high speed.
However, there's a catch that a lot of beginners miss. Plastic has a "memory"—it can flex and then pop back into shape. Metal doesn't. If you hit something hard enough to bend an aluminum arm, it's stayed bent, and you can't exactly bend it back to 100% perfection. Plus, that energy we talked about earlier has to go somewhere else now. If the arm doesn't break, the hinge pin or the gearbox housing might. My advice? Stick to metal for things like drive shafts and hex hubs, but maybe keep the arms plastic unless you're building a "shelf queen" that you don't plan on jumping.
Keeping the Drivetrain Smooth
The drivetrain is the heart of the car, and it's where things get technical. If you start hearing a grinding or clicking noise, stop driving immediately. You've likely stripped a gear or got a tiny pebble stuck in the spur gear. On many Bezgar models, the gears are tucked away, but dust and grit find a way in regardless. Replacing a stripped plastic spur gear with a hardened steel one is one of the best "quality of life" upgrades you can do. It makes the car sound better and gives you way more confidence when you're pinning the throttle.
Don't forget the dogbones and drive shafts either. These are the long metal rods that transfer power from the center of the car to the wheels. Over time, the ends can get worn down or they can fly out if you have a particularly nasty crash. It's always worth checking the pins on these shafts for wear. If they look like they're getting thin, swap them out before they snap and leave you with a three-wheel-drive car that just spins in circles.
Tires and the Secret to Grip
Let's talk about rubber. The stock tires that come with most Bezgar rigs are actually pretty decent for all-around use, but they aren't immortal. If you're running your truck on asphalt or concrete regularly, you're going to cheese-grate those treads down to nothing in a matter of weeks. Once the "knobs" are gone, you'll find the car drifting all over the place, which is fun for about five minutes until you realize you can't hit a jump straight.
When looking for tire replacements, you have to decide between pre-glued sets or buying the rims and tires separately. If you're lazy like me, pre-glued is the way to go. Just make sure the hex size matches (usually 12mm for these scales). Also, think about the terrain. If you're mostly in tall grass, you want big, chunky lugs. If you're on loose dirt, a smaller "pin" style tire will give you way more "bite" in the corners. It's the easiest way to change how your car handles without touching a single internal component.
The Electronics and Power Upgrades
Sometimes the parts you need aren't about fixing a break, but about wanting more speed. The motor and ESC (Electronic Speed Controller) are the two big ones here. If you have a brushed motor and you feel like it's getting tired or running too hot, it might be time to look at a brushless conversion. Just keep in mind that if you go brushless, you're putting way more strain on all those other bezgar remote control car parts we just talked about.
Batteries are the other big factor. Switching from a standard NiMH battery to a LiPo (Lithium Polymer) is like giving the car a shot of adrenaline. The punch and top-end speed increase dramatically. Just make sure your ESC can handle the voltage and that you have a proper LiPo charger. Safety first—don't just plug a LiPo into a cheap wall charger and hope for the best.
Maintenance Tools You Actually Need
You can't really work on these cars with the tiny "L" shaped wrenches that come in the box—well, you can, but you'll end up with sore fingers and stripped screw heads. Investing in a decent set of hex drivers (usually 1.5mm, 2.0mm, and 2.5mm) makes the whole process of swapping parts so much better. A pair of needle-nose pliers and a small brush to clean off the dirt are also essential.
Speaking of dirt, keep a can of compressed air or a soft paintbrush handy. After a run, give the car a good "dusting." Getting the grit out of the hinge pins and off the motor heatsink will extend the life of your parts significantly. It's the stuff you don't see—like sand getting into the wheel bearings—that eventually causes the most headaches.
Why Fixing It Yourself Is Worth It
At the end of the day, the reason we hunt for bezgar remote control car parts is because we love the machine. There's a real sense of accomplishment when you take a pile of broken plastic and "clicking" gears and turn it back into a high-speed dirt-thrower. It teaches you about mechanics, electronics, and patience.
Plus, when you fix it yourself, you know it's done right. You can add a little bit of threadlock to those screws that keep backing out, or you can shim the differentials to make them last longer. Every time you replace a part, you're making the car yours. So, the next time you send it off a ramp and hear that dreaded snap, don't sweat it. Just get it back on the bench, find the right parts, and get back out there. That's what the hobby is all about.